My Taiwan Adventure

I am happy to be back in Taipei. I didn't think I'd see the day where I was happy to hear Mandarin, but believe it or not I've become accustomed to the tones and cadence of the language. If I can't tell exactly what they're saying at least sometimes I can tell what the topic matter is. While there is a lot more English spoken in Thailand it was still a mixed journey for me. I think had I gone for a pleasure trip instead of a visa run I would have enjoyed it much more.

My recommendation to anyone travelling to Thailand is to get in and out of Bangkok as quickly as possible. Especially if you're staying in the westerner, tourist and backpacker Khosan Road area. It is initially fun but the novelty of the constant harassment by tuk-tuk drivers, hawkers, peddlers and beggars becomes a serious irritant the longer you stay. My trip to HuaHin was much more relaxing.

HuaHin is a small resort town within easy reach of Bangkok. The trip can take as little as 30 minutes or as long as 4. There is one 12 seat plane that flies into the local airport at the dear price of 3,500 Baht. Friday evening I took the bus for 170 B and the train is only 45 B if you want to hang out with the packed locals in non-a/c 'comfort.'

I was happily awed with the great expanse of horizon that met my hungry gaze after leaving Bangkok. Living in Taiwan for 6 months has left me with visual impressions of buildings and mountains but very little horizon. It was so nice to look upon miles of fields only interrupted by small windmills, shabby little shacks and luscious ponds surrounded by small trees. I drank in the greenery with my thirsty gaze until darkness fell over the land.

Arriving in HuaHin I was immediately greeted by a motorcycle taxi. You just hop on the back of a motorcycle, no helmet or anything and they ferry you anywhere you want to go. They're experts at balancing luggage and handled my tiny carry-on suitcase with no problem. I went straight to a guest house recommended by the Lonely Planet guide.

The gardens at the hotel were as beautiful as promised by the book and the hostess was very friendly and polite. Even the hotel dog, Jasmine, was happy to see me and we tussled a little in the lobby before I was shown to my nice large twin room. I opted not to pay the 50 Baht extra for a/c as it was only around 26 and lightly drizzling when I got into town. While that ended up proving a well-made decision the hotel as a whole turned out to be a mistake.

The odour from the bathroom started getting bad around 2 am. By 4 I was gagging and 4:30 am saw me open the patio door. While I was highly aware of the risk of theft I simply opted to have air that I could breathe. I have little enough to steal anyway. At 6 am I abandoned all attempts to sleep, flicked on the BBC news channel and decided to try and shower the damp stickiness of the humid night off my skin. The hot water didn't work. Maybe that was supposed to be included with the a/c package that I didn't pay for. Disgruntled because the water wasn't even mildly bearable I used a face cloth for a sponge bath and got out of the bad air in the bathroom with haste.

The patio door was wide open by the time the free breakfast rolled around at 8:30 am. I was thrilled to find homemade grain bread unlike the fluffy yeast loaves that they make in Taiwan. I took it as consolation for the tiring night in the septic-tank odours. I was even happier to find that you could get a boiled egg with breakfast and indulged myself in one to go with the delectable toast. Sadly, at check-out they charged me 40 Baht. That's enough to buy 2 dozen eggs. A complete and utter rip-off in any establishment under 5 stars in Thailand. I only commented that it was a very expensive egg before forking over the cash. I was, by this time, tired of being taken advantage of and also tired of quibbling over the small bills in my possession. They stored my luggage for free while I toured the town.

The first thing I did was make a bee-line for the beach in the light drizzle. My mind cleared as I arrived at the ocean to find several horses clustered at the entrance to the white sand beach. The water was muddy with sediment stirred by the rain and the clouds were a dull ash gray. The sound of the surf helped to wash some of the stress of the journey from me. Sadly the first horse I was offered was badly bridled and was bleeding from a sore behind it's ears. The horse I had my eye on to ride was brought over by a different owner and I mounted the bay after haggling for a half-hour ride. Even I was smart enough not to bargain for an hour as the beach is only 2 km long and not that wide that you'd want to ride in circles for long.

Rain lightly caressed my face as I galloped down the beach. The only sound that of the light surf, the wind and my mounts hooves in the thick wet sand. It was a long-time dream come true. The whole experience left me smiling in earnest. I was at peace for a short time on that beach. My spirits buoyed by the small joy unsurpressed for a moment before the rain began to strengthen.

From the beach I slipped into the impressive 5 star Sofitel Hotel by virtue of my white face. Thais are halted at the entrance for proof of residency. The hotel dates back to the 1920's and there is a spectacular topiary garden that sports a GIGANTIC elephant that you can walk through. I would love to return as a guest in the future. I spent the rest of the day hopping from cafe to cafe before taking a bus back to Bangkok. Sunday morning I made a bee-line for the airport. Thus ending my first trip to Thailand.

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